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 © Francis Harrison (
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created on 11-10-2010
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Most visitors to Delhi hang out at the tout-infested Connaught Place or marvel at the neo-fascist colonial monstrosities built by Lyeuten, but for me Delhi's true charm can be found in a compact community of sufi muslim hidden in the vast green expanses of South Delhi: Nizamuddin West.

Entering Nizamuddin for the first time is like traveling back in time to 13th century Persia - you rub your eyes in disbelief among the red rose sellers, the Taliban lookalikes and the shy, veiled women.

Part one of this three-part project deals with my first visit to the place during a torrential monsoon downpour. Quick impressions, sketches of incomprehensibility and awe...


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